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Flashback - several months ago. Erin and Marca are driving to Central Market to pick up groceries. Central Market is in the area I used to live - Hyde Park Marca questioned me as to why I would want to live there -it's very expensive, and there are nicer less expensive places to live. I really didn't have an answer other than I like the area.

Now I have a better answer: It's WIERD. 37th Street, where I lived, is very much a community of aging hippies with cool ideas. The place is strung with lights and is a huge attraction during Christmas. Hyde Park has HISTORY. It's very old, and places in Hyde Park date to the founding of the neighborhood. And I saw a guy with his entire face tatooed and horns on his head at Amy's Ice Cream.

Sum it up in one word "COMMUNITY." Sum it up in two words "WIERD COMMUNITY." I'm going back there.

What brought on this nostalgia? A trip through Hyde Park - this time with a Hyde Park History Book.

- -
(Hyde Park Today - Map of Hyde Park Today - HydePark 1890 or so)


In the 1890 map (which yours truly made based on an 1890 town map, overlayed on a 2002 map) Hyde Park had a real life park with two lakes in it. Before 1890 the southwest corner of Hyde Park was the site of the original Texas State Fair. Now that I had a book that told me what used to be where, I took off to find out what was left of Old Hyde Park.

Sadly very little.

In the 1890 map, the northeasternmost road is 45th street. Southwesternmost road is 38th Street. Northwesternmost is Guadalupe Street (although in 1890 it was called Asylum Road). Southeasternmost road is Duval Street.

The green area in the 1890 map is a the actual Hyde Park and resort. I found it strange that there were TWO lakes in the area. My first stop was to see what is left of the entrance of that park (At the corner of 38th and Guadalupe. the entryway was gone, and I knew it was gone...I mean, I lived there for a year. But where once stood an archway with an entrance to Hyde Park stands a Jiffy Lube. There is also no trace of the creekbed that drained off of Gem Lake.

Going into the park area, the entire park is now homes and apartments. Sad really. After a few tries, I found the are of Gem Lake, beterrn 42nd and 41st street...and Avenue B and C. There is absolutely no trace of the lake - houses sit where the lake used to be, I figured maybe I was driving AROUND the depression the lake would make, so I ran up the alley between Avenue B and C. I shold have been riving right through the lake...nothing. Not even a dip. No trace of Gem Lake. Crystal FountainK Lake (North East of Gem LAke) is the same - no trace of lake, depression, creek...nothing. The entire area must have been filled in and paved over.

No trace of any of the park roads in the park, either...40th and Avenue B are the only roads that remain.

I got some food, and came back. Not shown in my 1890 map was the 39th street "dip" between Speedway and Duval Street. The town map I had was more for selling lots than for traveling, so I'm sure it showed the PLANNED routes of roads and not the actual routes (although it was RE#ALLY close). However, in the book I'm reading the dip is mentioned, and the 2002 map shows that cruved road. Right at the southernmost curve of the road, is the Shadowlawn house. This is where Mr. Shipe, who laid out Hyde PArk, lived. That dip is all that is left of a horseracing track that used to run the Eastern side of Hyde Park when it was part of the Texas State Fair (as a matter of fact, the Shadowlawn house is made from board from the Grandstands of the Texas State Fair). I drove down it a few times and thought it was REALLY keen...I could imagine horses running down this part of the road (As well as hot rodding Model Ts going a blazing 30 miles an hour.

Another thing I wanted to check out was Speedway Street. Back int he 1890s, Speedway was known as Congress Street (Congress is the main North South street through downtown Austin). Congress was extended to Hyde Park. In the 2000s, though, Speedway (the road was so often called "The Speedway" that it's name was changed to Speedway)is no longer one straight road. Going north on Speedway, you do almost due north...then the road twists to the right, hits 31st street and turns into Tom Green (no, I'm not joking) Street. Taking a left on 31st, you have to make another right to hit Speedway again, which then goes through Hyde PArk.

According to the book, the road did go straight through without that S-curve. If you go straight north, through the houses where Speedway USED to go, you go up a very steep hill, and right back down onto Speedway. The hill was known as Lovers Hill and actually went through private property...that's a fairly common in Texas, where public roads run thorugh private property and cattleguards keep cows from wander off.

Turns out that so many people used Lovers Hill for their own nefarious purposes that the owner fenced up his property and wouldn't let anyone use the road. So the road was diverted a bit to 31st street. NEat huh?

Yeah, I'm a history buff. Bite me. :) And Hyde Park ROCKS.

More info here - http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/library/ahc/hydepark - http://www.utexas.edu/courses/mis325/history/hist020.htm

Date: 2002-07-20 12:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] toastyman.livejournal.com
I have no idea where any of the places you're talking about are, but that's the coolest LJ post i've read in a while. :)

Date: 2002-07-20 05:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nathan-r.livejournal.com
My brain is still in bartending school mode. When you mentioned Tom Green, my first thought was of the comedian, and my second was how you could go about inventing a drink of that name. I decided:

Pack a Collins glass with ice, add:
1 1/2 oz. gin
1 1/2 oz. lime sour mix
Splash of Rose's Lime Juice

Shake, then:
Fill with 7-Up.

Garnish with a lime slice.

Sun rises. Texans travel. Simple facts

Date: 2002-07-20 06:44 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] zaecus.livejournal.com
I used to go on trips every once in a while... Usually because it was morning/evening on a weekend/weekday, and I had just woke up/been up for a while. ;-)

You're not one of those people I'm ever likely to ask the question "Get out much?" :-)

"I've ascended to a higher plane of existence. I'm energy now." "How's that workin' for ya?"

Go Jack!

Date: 2002-07-21 02:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jenndolari.livejournal.com
Thanks! ::grins::

I love Hyde Park - should the Fates decide I have a house, I hope it's in Hyde Park. On 27th street. Next door to the guy with the tattoo and horns. :)

Date: 2002-07-21 02:08 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jenndolari.livejournal.com
Serve to a hack comedian, who will slather manure on it and stuff it under people's noses. :)

Re: Sun rises. Texans travel. Simple facts

Date: 2002-07-21 02:09 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jenndolari.livejournal.com
I get out as OFTEN as I can. I love road trips to small towns and history lessons from the locals. :)
From: [identity profile] audaciousd.livejournal.com
Why like Hyde Park? It has personality. It has trees. It has old hippies and musicians (and other artists) of all ages. It has houses with purple trim. It has cats. It has people with hats shaped like turkeys riding bikes. It has a restaurant with a 30-foot fork outside. You can walk through it and probably not worry about getting run over by some maniac going 50 in a residential. And much, much more. ;)

IT IS JUST COOL. Yeah, it is overpriced (one lousy negative...), but I miss it too. Oh yeah, and it has the ass-kickin'-est snowcone place on its border...

27th Street?
From: [identity profile] elenderel.livejournal.com
Wow ... Hyde Park reminds me of Buffalo's Allentown district, where the houses (all tiny Victorian homes) are painted the wildest, weirdest colors and you could trip over all the artsy types who hang out on the streets at night because the coffeehouses are all as wide as a typical walk-in closet, so nobody fits inside. I still have a free coffee coin for one of those places. *sigh* It also sounds like Syracuse's Wescott Nation, a diverse neighborhood centered around Westcott Street which hippies, students, the radical left, and other interesting people call home.

I wanna live in Hyde Park, or at least I wanna see the 30-foot fork! (Is it in the road??)
From: [identity profile] jenndolari.livejournal.com
On it's BORDER?! 51st is NO WHERE near the border of Hyde Park. Hyde PArk Addition is only up to the 47th street. Get your geography right.

Still...damned good snowcones. :)

I meant to say 37th street. Oops.
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